Something about Jolly

Jolly
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Mountain guide, ex athlete of the Italian National Team, he climbed his first 8a in 1986 with 'Il ricordo del tempo' in Sperlonga; The first 8b in 1988 with 'La rose et le vampire' in France, the reference route in that period; his first 8c in 1994 con 'Il corvo' in Ferentillo; the first 9a 'Hugh' to Eaux Clairs in France in 2001, the first route of this grade climbed by an italian. In 2004 he climbs Bain de sang (9a).

 

1974

He began to climb in the mountains with his father

 

1984

He became an instructor at the moutaineering school of th e Italian Alpin Club of Rome. Climbs on sight 'Tettofobia' 7a+, in Sperlonga

Climbs the 'Bonatti' at Gran Capucin

 

1985

Via Comici, Cima Grande di Lavaredo

Tempi moderni, South Face of the Marmolada

Estasi, first repeat, South Face of the Marmolada

Olimpo, first repeat, South Face of the Marmolada

Messner, South Face of the Marmolada

La Mancha, South Face of the Marmolada

Cavalcare la tigre, first repeat, Gran Sasso

all toghether with Luca Grazzini

 

1986

Il ricordo del tempo, at Sperlonga, one of the forst 8a routes of Italy

 

1987

Choucas, 8a+, Buoux

Sister Moon, 8a+, Monte Moneta

Italian Champion 'speed', Torino Palavela

 

1988

La Rose et le Vampire, 8b, Buoux

Second at the Italian  Championship 'speed', Torino Palavela

 

1989

It is part of the National Team and competes in the World Cup and the Rock Master.  The races, however, are now totally detached from the real rock and shall be made only on artificial walls.

 

1990

Manages, togheter with Antonella Strano, the first climbing wall in Rome.

 

1992

Via del Pesce, Marmolada, with Luca Grazzini and Paolo Camplani

Framm, first winter repeat, with Piero Dal Prà

 

1994

Il Corvo, 8c, al Gabbio, first ascent. First 8c of the Central Italy

Via Cassin, Sperone Walker, North Face of Grandes Jorasses, Mont Blanc

Via Gabarrou-Long, Pilastro Rosso del Brouillard, Monte Bianco

Becomes a Mountain Guide

Jolly on Il Corvo
?

1989

Founds the climbing school Club Lanciani, with Marco Forcatura and Alfredo Smargiassi

Nada es para siempre, 8c, first ascent, at Grotti

 

1999

Input, 8c, first ascent, at Grotti

 

2001

Hugh 9a, first repeat, France, The first 9a climbed by an italian

Begins to coach athletes  with its website www.jollypower.com

Two of its athletes, starting almost from basics, will win in the following years both the Italian League Cup and the Italian Championship.

 

2002

Zandalee, 8c, first ascent, at Grotti

La cronique de la haine ordinaire 8c, at Céüse

 

2004

Bain de sang, 9a, in Switzerland

 

2005

Er Cid, 8c, first ascent, a Grotti

 

2006

Via del Nose, Yosemite, USA, with Franco Loaldi

Jolly
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2007

Publishes the book 'Methods of physical and mental training for sport climbing' \nNadir, 8c, first ascent, in Kalymnos

 

2008

Second revised edition of the book

Lost temple spires, Rocky Mountains, USA, with Roberto Scagnoli \n4 repeats of  8b/c routes

 

2009

La Morte, 8c, first repeat, at Pietrasecca

Devises and founds the  www.climbook.com website, a climbers community.

Publishes stories and opinions on its website climbook.

He is writing a new book, this time a collection of 'true stories', related to the world of Roman climbing.

Adjunct Professor for sport climbing at the faculty of Physical Education at l'Aquila

Over the past 20 years  has been dedicated to the study and testing methodologies for the development of strength and technique and the mental aspects for climbing, method that soon becomes a practical tool available to everyone, thanks the publication of the book 'Jollypower, Methods of physical and mental training for climbing', now at the third edition.